In this article I will show you a safe and easy bee vacuum that I built.
The Design
The bee vacuum portion is made from a 5-gallon bucket with a large sieve on top to diffuse the actual vacuum suction.
Inside the bucket a chute is used to keep from crushing the bees as they enter.
Componets
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5 Gallon Food Grade Bucket
The 5 gallon bucket is the heart of the this bee vaccum.
I purchased this one from Lowes here:
5 Gallon Bucket Sieve
This sifting pan is used to defuse the suction from the vacuum. This sifting pan fits into the top of the bucket.
Can be purchased here:
Simple 5 Gallon Bucket Lid
This lid fits into the top of the sifting pan.
I purchased this one from Lowes here:
1-1/2 x 1-1/4 Slip Joint Adapter.
You can get one here:
PVC 1-1/2” x 1-1/4” Trap Adapter
If you have a Home Depot near you, you can purchase it a little cheaper here:
Intake Hose
You will need a hose to act as your intake. The union that I use will accommodate the large end of this hose. Its meant for a 2-1/4” ID Union.
I got mine here:
The nice thing about this kit is that it comes with a couple ends that I have found useful for collecting bees.
You are free to use any hose you like, but may have to make an adapter to attach to the bucket intake.
Originally, I used this plastic roof flashing to create my chute and intake funnel, While I only paid $10 or so for this roll, the price has gone up too much to recommend this flashing. If you already have some then it will work just fine.
Its 1/64” thickness makes it perfect for both the chute and intake funnel.
Flexible Chopping Mats
These mats are 12” x 15” and are 1/64” thick. They work perfectly.
You can purchase them here:
Assembly
Step 1 - Remove the Handle
Point the point of the handle down.
You will then be able to pop the handle out of the hole.
Step 2 - Drill the Intake Hole
Use a 1-5/8” Forstner bit to drill a hole in the bucket.
The center of the hole is 2-1/2” from the bottom.
Step 3 - Install the Slip Joint Adapter
Place enough electricians tape around the wide end of the adapter. You want the union fitting to slip snugly over the adapter.
Remove the threaded ring and screw the adapter into the hole of the bucket. Screw it in until it starts to slip.
Step 4 - Cut the Chute
Mark a line 3-3/4” from the edge.
Use some scissors to cut the marked piece off.
Step 5 - Drill the Chute Hole
Mark a point 1-1/4” from the bottom and 1-5/8 from the edge.
Mark a bend line 3-1/4” from the edge.
Use some painters tape to tape the chute to a piece of scrap wood.
Use the 1-5/8” Forstner bit to cut the hole. Go slow and rock the bit so that it scores the outside of the hole.
Eventually the bit will cut through the chute.
Step 6 - Bend the Chute
Bend the chute with your hand at the 3-1/4” mark. Bend the chute so that the line is on the inside of the bend.
Bend it as much as you can. You can use a piece of scrap wood to help make the bend sharper.
Inside of the bend.
Step 7 - Install the Chute
Slip the chute over adapter. It may help if you twist the adapter to thread it through the hole.
Add the treaded ring. Tighten as much as you can by hand only.
Step 8 - Secure the Chute
Use some metal HVAC tape to secure the loose end of the chute.
You want to anchor it in such a way that the bees will hit the flat part of the chute about halfway. Use more tape to flatten the turn as much as needed.
Step 9 - Make the Funnel
I cut a piece about 6” x 6” of the mat. I then shape it so that I can trim the ends with scissors.
When trimmed you want a 1” hole on one end and a 2-1/4" on the other end. The overall length when trimmed should be just under 4”.
The finished funnel.
The funnel is used to keep the bees from banging against the inside of the adapter.
Step 10 - Install the Funnel
Insert the funnel into the union.
Install the union over the adapter with the small end of the funnel pointing to toward the inside of the bucket.
You want the small end of the funnel to be sticking through the threaded ring on the inside of the bucket.
Once positioned correctly secure with HVAC tape. Use small pieces and work your way around the inside. Its best to have the tape overhang the outside edge of the union.
This is a vacuum hose with a 2-1/4” end. If fits snuggly into the union. If its loose, add more tape.
Step 11 - Install the Sieve
I like my Sieve to fit snuggly into the bucket, so it is less likely to popoff when carrying outside with the bucket full of bees.
I use some foam weather stripping for this.
The sieve is inserted into the top of the bucket.
Step 12 - Cut Hole in Lid
I drill a hole in the lid that will allow me to fit the hose that goes to the vacuum. This hose will vary depending on the vacuum you use.
Step 13 - Install the Lid
The lid fits into the top of the sieve.
The hose going to the vacuum is inserted into the lid.
Step 14 - Install Vent Hole (Optional)
If your vacuum does not have a speed control, you will need to install a vent hole.
This is to keep the vaccume pressure from killing the bees.
Start with a 1-5/8” hole using a Forstner bit.
To test the suction I, cut some small pieces of tissue paper about 1/2” square. You want the intake to pull the tissue paper when you are about 1/2” away.
Lessen the suction by cutting another hole. To increase the suction, add some HVAC tape to cover part of the hole.
Conclusion
Thats pretty much it. Here is my setup in my beehouse.
How Does it Work?
I have mine adjusted so the intake has to be really close to the bees.
Here are some bees I dumped after inspecting a three-tier hive in the beehouse.
Here is the platform about two hours later.
Be sure to check out my Building a Slovenian Hive book series.